KI6IUC Mobile Install
This install has been on the drawing board for a couple of months. The requirements for getting this equipment into the car were strict.
#1. The car may only have ONE (visible) antenna.
#2. A clean, integrated install, with hidden wiring and functionality.
#3. The equipment must not get in the way of the operation of the vehicle. Most importantly airbags. This includes magic (folding) seats and dashboard controls.
First up, the radio. The choices were narrowed down to two. The Yaesu 8800 and the Kenwood TM-V71A. I got a chance to test out one of the Yaesu sibling radios - the 7800 at a rally last month. The audio was great, the transmitter worked flawlessly as expected. The menu options and programming were similar to most radios, so I was able to figure it out waiting for rally cars to show up. At the event I was also able to test out the 8800. Two of them were in use at the rally and both operators gave glowing reviews of the rig. Only one feature frustrated me. The ability to quickly lock the display. Instead of a single key press… The lock function is buried under a menu setting for both the 7800 AND 8800. Later in the week I swung by the local HRO and got a good 30 minutes of sit down, hands-on time, with the Kenwood TM-V71A. Why did I buy it? 1 touch lock. The ability to change to a green display was a bonus. The stock Kenwood remote kit was all that was needed here. It’s just out of the way and just high enough to see it while driving. Out of the sun and away from airbags, this worked out great!
My $4.43 antenna: I first scoured the web looking for euro, stinger, stealth amateur radio antennas. Something that would replace my existing antenna, something that would still receive FM, make toast, and be cheap. $245 is not cheap. Sure it radiates on 2 meters, probably deaf on 440 and needs a box of coils and chokes to get decent FM coverage. The KISS moment came when I just stopped trying to use 1 antenna for 5 radios. Do something else for FM - a hidden glass mount or “other.” Then use a dual band radio on a tuned vertical using the stock base. Use ONE radio for mobile and APRS duties. I too dislike that one side of the radio is dedicated to APRS, but this I think is better then a 5 watt handi-talkie in a TrackerBox hooked to a duplexer (this allows the use of 1 antenna) that will de-sense a $360 radio with $80 worth of eBay gear.
So… 10mm screw + solder + 20″ of solid copper wire + tubing + heat shrink = $4.43
A tuning session got the antenna down to 1.3:1 SWR on the 2 meter bands (VHF) and 1.5:1 SWR on 70cm (UHF). Total length is now around 16″ - looking at the math, I’m sure the base has something to do with the total height. Basically a vertical that is a 1/4 wave VHF and a 3/4 wave UHF. I call it: The KM-443 Vertical You know I will say that on signal reports if asked.
Hacking the existing FM antenna: In order to get the headliner open enough to get access to the antenna, pretty much all of the plastic interior panels in the rear of the Honda Fit needed to be removed. Christine was thankfully patient and refrained from freaking out on the fact that I had just taken apart the inside of our 11 month old car. Once in my hand, I saw how the amplified antenna works. Power and a tiny coax cable travel to a circuit board that is shielded, grounded, and sent up the center conductor of the mount. Relocating this inside the vehicle was worth a shot and I soldered on an RCA coupling to make this easy. Extra RCA cables are always around the house, right? A wire about the length of the stock FM antenna was soldered to the center conductor and tested. Reception is decent, and the base was ground to the inside of the chassis, with the new antenna wire traveling up the inside of the plastic window frame. Will this be good for rural areas? Probably not, but LA radio stations sound great, and satellite radio is for everything else.
What I had left was a 10mm bolt center post and a good ground. A small section of PVC was used as an insulated spacer to replace the missing stock antenna. A donated piece of good coax was attached with ring terminals.
Cable runs: The following has been run from the front to the rear of the Fit.
* 10 awg fused battery power cable.
* Remote accessory power relay wire.
* Kenwood remote head unit cable.
* CAT5 cable with serial data to/from TNC and switched power.
* Satellite radio antenna wire.
* Speaker audio.
* CAT5 cable used for Kenwood microphone.
This allows everything in the back to be turned on and controlled by the driver. The TNC can be switched off if I want to use both sides of the radio, or I want to stop beaconing my position. The radio comes on and goes off with the car. A bypass switch was installed in the rear panel should I want to have the radio on without the keys in the ignition. If you’re going through all the hassle, why not add a accessory power connector and power pole port in the back for charging, extra radios, etc.
The center console: This is a Honda Fit, not a Chevy Tahoe. So the microphone connector had to be tested to work with the magic folding seats. I was about to mount the speaker off the back of the console when I realized that it would interfere. Christine suggested that if I take off the bracket, it might fit. Well, it fits perfect! If you turn the mic on its side it seems to be happy in the pocket next to the handbrake, or in the rear cup holder.
A great setup for APRS duties is the Garmin Nuvi 350 and an Argent Data Systems Tracker2. I want to give a shout out to Mike Wren N2QDK for his APRS mobile install. After reading this I knew I had found what I was looking for. I drew a lot of inspiration from his install, and I’m loving my Garmin Nuvi APRS setup!
Finishing up: With just a little compromise, I got what I was looking for. My mobile setup can do everything from cross band repeat, to tactical APRS tracking, and yet from the outside it looks just like any other Honda Fit with a GPS on the dash. I’ll be APRS tracking more frequently and I can’t wait to volunteer at a rally with it!


Sorry about the MS rant, let’s get back to Ubuntu. The update manager is also pretty pervasive in Ubuntu. I found the following settings to be a good safe bet. There is more information on updates and kernel updates, but you still need to watch this like a hawk and presume that after an update your machine may have issues. I also discovered that a full shutdown and restart solved problems on my Dell Mini after an update.